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saturday 31 july 2010 versione italiana   |    travelbook   |    reg. users   |    contact us   |    home
Boats away
written by Alberto Laggia, by Leo n. 30
Not the shouting and clapping of the happy crowds thronging the banks of the Grand Canal. Not the colourful array of pennants or the splendid gilding of the boats in the parade. And not even the supporters' yells urging them on and the coarse cries of the Venetians. My first and most thrilling recollections of the
Historic Regatta are of a gloomy silence broken only by the swashing of the water against a boatyard slipway. We are not in St Mark's Basin, not even in the Grand Canal, but in the brackish and solitary Arsenale. Here it was that my uncle brought me every year when I was a child, by boat on one of the many sunny afternoons of August, and not too long before the first Sunday of September, the date of the Regatta. I no longer remember what he had in mind exactly, but I know for sure that he wanted to surprise me, opening the door of time. And he knew how to do it. He would slide the boat in through the water entrance to the Arsenale and, crossing the sheet of water that led to the old wharves and dry docks once pictured by Dante, reach the sheds where the bissone were kept, the aged ceremonial boats that had led the way at the Historic Regatta for centuries in the magnificent procession that took place before the regatta itself.
The dazzling August light shimmering in the waters suddenly changed into the semi-obscurity of the boatshed where those noble old vessels reposed. So as not to waken them from that yearlong lethargy I would whisper. Or perhaps I would, without so much as a word, just admire those finely ornate wooden sides, with their much too gaudy ornamentation, the pointed prows shaped like monstrous marine animals or dragons with gaping jaws, or gigantic serpents. Their aggressive features probably were intended as a reminder of the Venetian warships in the centuries of the Serene Republic's conquests. And now I alone could approach them - to my mind an enormous privilege - and climb on the back of those huge sleeping serpents (bissona means huge serpent) with their exaggerated colours which, a few days later as though by magic and only for a few hours, would plough through the waves and show the whole world what a Venetian boat was capable of.
Details of the Bissone
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